A high-end custom jacket‘s fit is not simply a matter of “S/M/L”. It needs to balance static aesthetics with dynamic comfort.
- Shoulder design
- Raglan sleeves: The sleeves extend diagonally from the neckline to the armpits, offering a high degree of freedom of movement and are suitable for athletic jackets (such as baseball jackets). The challenge lies in the three-dimensional tailoring of the shoulder curve to avoid wrinkles and bunching.
- Set-in Sleeve: The sleeve is sewn separately at the shoulder joint, with clean lines, suitable for formal wear or slim-fit jackets. The sleeve cap should have a “gain” – that is, the armhole curve is slightly longer than the armhole by 1-2cm, forming a full shoulder through gathering. This is the key to demonstrating the level of craftsmanship.
- Kimono sleeve: The front and back panels are integrated with the sleeve, without shoulder seams. It is commonly seen in Japanese-style jackets or Zen-inspired designs. It requires extremely high fabric width and cutting precision.
- Garment structure
- Chest darts: These darts, either vertical or horizontal, sculpt the chest muscles, preventing a hollow or tight appearance. Custom-made darts will be tailored to the client’s chest shape, adjusting the dart position and depth accordingly.
- Waist adjustment: Jackets typically have adjustable loops or built-in elastic at the waist. When customizing, the waist circumference can be precisely measured to create an “inverted trapezoidal” visual effect.
- Ribbed hem: A classic element of the bomber jacket. The width, elasticity, and color of the ribs must coordinate with the main fabric, and there should be no wavy twisting after sewing.
- Collar type and placket
- Notch Lapel: Similar to a suit lapel, suitable for more formal jackets. The width and angle of the lapel need to be adjusted according to face shape and shoulder width.
- Stand Collar: A classic design like the Baracuta G9 jacket, where the collar height should fit snugly around the neck and not feel restrictive when buttoned up.
- Cuban Collar: V-shaped opening, suitable for Hawaiian shirt jackets, the angle of the collar points needs to be precise.
- Zipper placket: The zipper length, zipper pull shape, and zipper fabric color should all be carefully matched. High-end zippers such as YKK Excella or Riri are standard.
